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Recently got a NetGear R6250 Wireless router for our network as our old router kept dipping as we figured it was old age.

Our current setup is that every machine connected has a static IP to avoid conflicts. The old router is still connected! while we move people over to the new network.

Here is my layout:

enter image description here

I have set the Router to have a static IP address as well. Here are the settings for the Router:

enter image description here

It has the latest firmware update and this problem is similar to the previous router except this one doesn't reconnect. It stays saying "No connectivity" until I reset the router.

How can I stop the network from dipping or better yet how do I make it automatically recover if it does go out?

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  • when you say 'dipping' do you mean occational connection issues? Is this only on wireless?
    – Journeyman Geek
    Jan 16, 2014 at 15:16
  • Only the wireless network and dipping is occasional, goes out then doesn't come back unless i restart router. With the old router we dipped more but it came back automatically Jan 16, 2014 at 15:21
  • ahh, excellent - if you have an android phone or tablet grab inssider and do a site survey - I had the same thing happen with my network and switching the channel manually to a less crowded one was magic
    – Journeyman Geek
    Jan 16, 2014 at 15:25

3 Answers 3

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What exactly is the question here?

Are both of your routers acting as access points?

Are they both on channel 11? (This will cause a decent amount of interference with one another)

How consistent are the connections to laptop 1 & 2?

There are so many things that can contribute to inconsistent wireless signals. Where are the routers located relative to the computers trying to pick up their signal?

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  • Updated OP on the question. Both routers are acting as access points, I'm not too sure on the channels as the new router has 2 different wireless settings (2.4GHz and 5GHz) both of which have different channel options (In the image above). The connections on both laptops last a few hours to a couple of minutes, there's no pattern on when they will dip out. The routers are about 5-6 steps from me Jan 16, 2014 at 14:41
  • The GHz you refer to is the frequency the wireless routers can operate on. These can be further broken down into channels. Ideally you want to have your routers on channels as far apart from one another, as well as any other wireless routers your home/office can see, to eliminate conflicts. The more wireless signals there are on the same channel frequency, the more interference you'll have.
    – MattD
    Jan 16, 2014 at 14:46
  • Im confused. According to your layout the 2 laptops are wired to the switch. They should have very consistent connections.. if not, then the problem is not your router. Is DHCP turned on for both routers? That'll be a problem. What signal is coming from the wall port?
    – malfy
    Jan 16, 2014 at 14:53
  • My bad! I meant to say that 2 laptops are wired to the switch and 2 are not wired in but do use the wirless, I will turn DHCP off on the new router and change the channel. Jan 16, 2014 at 14:59
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  • I had a NetGear WGR614v7 and it just would not work all of the time. I got another identical brand new one and had the same exact problems. They were intermittent. Then I got a Sysco LinkSys and have never looked back.

  • Also, if I were you I would hook up only 1 WiFi at a time and also let DHCP serve the ip addresses. No chance of radio cross talk that way. It shouldn't take more than 15 minutes to get everything up. Also I think it's far more likely to get it right with DHCP unless there is some really important reason you need static, like if you are serving web pages TO the internet. You should be able to do a factory reset on it to get it to default setup which should just work out of the box, plug and play. Pretty much this is the K.I.S.S. principle.

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I have had two issues which caused similar problems for me (different routers):

1) a router which had "parental control settings" and intrusion detection would, one by one, block or stop responding to all wireless devices on the network (test: disable the parental controls (or similar) if any).

2) a wireless-n router which did not play well with the ISP's QOS tagging. Some wireless devices eventually dropped or couldn't get connectivity, others had transfer rates in the 9000-baud range. (disabled QOS tagging which essentially puts it in G mode; switched to G)

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  • I do have parental controls enabled. I shall disable it. Jan 16, 2014 at 16:56

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