I generally like Gmail, but there's something about well formatted, color highlighted plain text over a black background that appeals to me a lot. I'd like to be able to use Emacs to read/send email using my Gmail account, but setting it up is infuriatingly difficult. I tried a bunch of extensions and tutorials, but none of them gave me a fully working email setup for Emacs.
This is going to be my last try before I give up. I'm on Ubuntu 11.10, standard Unity shell, using Emacs 23.3. Please tell me once and for all how to get this to work.