Something other than Google Analytics. I'm looking for something simple and clean.

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See also "Alternative to statcounter service?" at superuser.com/questions/28758/… (and "The best way to follow visits on your web page?" at superuser.com/questions/13091/…) – Arjan Oct 18 '09 at 10:44
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Google Analytics is actually the best out there. There is a few actual applications mentioned in this ServerFault question. There is also Reinvigorate which is currently in beta so I have not been able to review it yet.

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Reinvigorate has been in closed/open beta for a few years now. They keep promising to finish working on the beta, but well... still the stats look good though. – random Oct 18 '09 at 1:44
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Mint stats, Woopra. Woopra offers real time stats, where you can track which posts, sections the visitor is viewing & initiate a chat with them. Woopra just got off from beta program. Mint costs $30 per site, a flat fee.

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