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I'm having problems with my Wifi connection.

I did a test on with the following results:

Packet Loss: 0%
Ping: 103ms
Jitter: 29ms

Same test but from another machine on the network resulted in much less numbers for Ping (17ms) and Jitter (1ms). I updated my driver for the wireless card with the latest available.

I'm using Intel Ultimate-N 6300 AGN adapter (Win7/64bit) and D-Link 855L wireless router. WiFi configured for WPA2 N-only connection. I'm also using 'less crowded' channel.

Below is the ping statistics between my machine and the router:

Ping statistics for
    Packets: Sent = 3603, Received = 3535, Lost = 68 (1% loss),
Approximate round trip times in milli-seconds:
    Minimum = 1ms, Maximum = 1746ms, Average = 13ms

Appreciate your help!

share|improve this question
much of this is going to be related to environmental conditions like the location of the device relative to the wifi ap (walls, metal/concrete girders), and ambient interference (fluorescent lighting, wall power lines, high power devices). how much do the readings change if you do the test of both devices from the same location? – Frank Thomas May 18 '13 at 19:51
@FrankThomas I tested both computers in front of the router (both computers are laptops) in the same room. – Timka May 18 '13 at 19:59
if they have the same network card and driver then, it must come down to a characteristic of the laptops themselves. – Frank Thomas May 18 '13 at 20:15
What network configuration/hardware does the machine with better performance have? – Nevin Williams May 19 '13 at 3:21
@NevinWilliams Machine with better performance has Intel advanced-N 6250 wireless card (built-in). I also noticed that on my machine I have Dropbox installed and when I pause syncing gives me better results – Timka May 20 '13 at 20:39

Best option: hardware everything that can be. If u own your dwelling this is easy. You can do it yourself or have someone run cat 5e or 7 cables on the outside to various places and have a 4-8 port hub at each with a central hub linking them all. You can do drops down a wall or up from a basement.crawl space but FAR FAR more expensive.

This is what i did. All cables are cat 7' Note all hubs identical save one. All are switching hubs.

Lv room: net gear 8port 1/10Gbps hub (10 internal, 1Gbps max) per port M.bedroom: 8 port, 1/10 hub Guest bedroom: 8 port 1/10 hub (central hub office hub, lv room hub, m.bed hub connects to it) Home office: netgear 16 port 1/10 hub & netgear 4 port 1/10 hub

Office: Twc 500x50 business class & ATT UVERSE VDSL 50Mbpsx5Mbps ISPS to dual wan asus router/wifi/hub. Configured for fallback/fall forward and shared bandwidth on a 10:1 ratio.

  • Asus lan port 1 to 16 port hub. Asus lan port 3 set up as secondary WAN for ATT. Wifi @ 5GHz, CHs 36-48 & 149-161@160MHz, AC ONLY+802.11d+h & 2.4 Ghz ch11 20MHz B/G/N
  • outside the network: Att UVERSE wifi: 5Ghz, CHs 52-64@80MHz N/AC (only used to access UVERSE modem. More once fiber comes)
  • 16 port hub runs 2 computers, color inkjet, brother laser printer and other Ethernet devices. Also runs a cable to opposite side of office to a * 4 port hub where my computer runs, a dell color laser printer, and a 32TB raid 5, 1Gbps, backup unit runs to backup anything that supports it (Windows PCs mostly)-also serves as an iTunes server (15TB of purchased Apple Music, tv shows,,music, podcasts, etc
  • port on 16 port office hub goes to port in guest bedroom hub
  • guest bedroom: 1 port to m.bed, 1 port to lv room
  • guest bedroom has a roommate. Remaining ports used by her PS3, Apple TV3,laptop, Xbox 360, directv HD tuner and slave to master DVR (directv uses the coax cables for its own 1Gbps network so to not burden customers network. They can be forced over Ethernet if need be)
  • m.bed: master directv DVR (4TB external space using eSata port), ATV3, nvidia shield console, ps4, Xbox one, and a asus RT-56U in AP mode only 5Ghz active using wifi N, CH 165@20MHz & 2.4 Ghz ch6 @ 20MHz B/G/N
  • lv. Room: secondary direcTV DVR (500GB), ps4, Xbox one, ATV gen 4, PS3, Wii U, asus rt-68u AP Mode, 5GHz, WiFi AC+802.11d+h, CH100-114@80MHz & 2.4 Ghz ch1 @ 20MHz B/G/N

Note: all access points use the same SSID for 2.4GHZ. 5GHz do not share the same SSIDS. All directv use Ethernet for Internet access only otherwise the master DVR MUST use wifi and bridge it to the coax network.

That's my network. My wifi is total OVERKILL BUT I live in a suburb of Charlotte NC on 1 acre. All houses in my HOA are in 0.75-1.5 acres. There virtual no 5GHz noise. Sometimes -80 to -95 which is nothing. 5GHz doesn't go more than 50ft past your house. TOPS. 2.4GHz, I use 1,6,11 for no overlap and I convinced almost everyone to use 1,6,or 11...there a few using 40MHz but they get crap speeds from the great number of people sharing 1,6,11 and our shared noise overpowers them. NEVER USE 2.4 @ 40MHz unless RURAL. get your speed from 5GHz, 40MHz for N or 60,80,100,160 for AC (60 & 100 are non standard)

However we all do have many wifi only devices: 2 iPad Pros, 1 Air 2, 1 Air 1 m 5GHz 2 iPhone 6S+, 1 iPhone 6S, 5GHz nvidia shield portable (console version is wired) 5GHz 2 Nintendo New 3ds XL (2.4GHz capable only) 3 PS Vitas (5GHz) SD wifi card in camera that auto copies pics when in range of wifi Ring Doorbell (2.4 capable only) 4 Ring security cameras, motion activated around the house (2.4 capable only)

All hubs, access points, modems on UPSBACKUP and can run for 12+ hrs. All ISPs who do Internet phones, in the USA, by law, must operate for a minimum of 8 hrs on power failure. 3 UPSes in the office hibernate the PCs if the power is out for more than 15seconds otherwise they'd Drain them dry in 10min

So when the power knocks it often does from summer tstorms in NC, we can keep entertained on wifi for 8 hrs. After that it's 4G or LTE data. One ups has only Apple high power chargers on it (5.2vx2.4A=12.5W). 6 of them. That one is dedicated to charging ANY APPLE or non Apple device that accepts use power. This one can last for DAYS. This isn't a standard ups. It's a 12V 700A car battery (modified at the factory for backup or fir car jump starts) with 12 110V plug ins. And 4 built in 10W usb charging ports. If fully drained, it takes 3 days to fully charge as it charges off a 12V, 3A charger.

Granted the cost of the wires, hiring someone to wire it. The hubs, AC points over time. At some point each were my main router until I upgraded. Plus the ups backups, etc = about 3000$, but u can pay someone 250-500 to wire your house. Then get some good quality, good priced SWITCHUNG HUBS. MAX COST = 500-750. FAR LESS if u wire yourself. Too much wireless is pushed. The fact the ps4 can only do 2.4 GHz is what started me doing all this. Things are so much better wired. Plus wired if FULL duplex 1000Mbps each way and can "talk each way at once". Wifi can't do that, well AC CAN, otherwise wifi is HALF DUPLEX. When a packet is being received, none can b sent and vice versa. This is why wifi N hardly ever reaches its potential - especially with many devices forced to take turns. Hence why I have 3 APs lol

share|improve this answer
Thank you for sharing your network setup with us, but I'm not sure I understand how this is relevant to the question asked. The question is about the performance difference 2 Wifi clients see. – Tonin Jul 14 at 11:42

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