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I have a ViewSonic monitor that has been busted for quite some time. I've been researching it and i still have no clue as to why it doesn't work.

It doesn't turn on. Or rather, it will turn on, but it will not display anything.

How do i go about diagnosing the monitor?

The monitor is a: ViewSonic VG2230WM Model #: VS11422

Fix: I opened up the monitor and replaced all of the burst capacitors. The monitor works beautifully now.

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closed as off-topic by Zoredache, Tog, Breakthrough, Mokubai, Dave M Jul 29 '13 at 17:41

This question appears to be off-topic. The users who voted to close gave this specific reason:

  • "This question is not about computer hardware or software, within the scope defined in the help center." – Zoredache, Tog, Mokubai, Dave M
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This almost might be a better fit over on electrical engineering. –  Zoredache Jul 25 '13 at 0:10
    
Check if you can see something if you point a flashlight on it. Maybe it's just backlight that's malfunctioning. –  gronostaj Jul 25 '13 at 10:53
    
Yup. If you dare, you might also want to crack it open and look at the capacitors - failure of these often stops a monitor from working. If thats the case, replacing ALL the capacitors would be a good idea since you often experience cascading failures as you replace them in my experience. At the very least, replace the bloaty ones –  Journeyman Geek Jul 28 '13 at 9:19

2 Answers 2

up vote 1 down vote accepted

I was going to ask questions in the comments, but I realized you were asking for information on how to diagnose it, as opposed to asking what the problem could be. As you have been told, a flashlight is a great diagnostic tool when attempting to see what is wrong with an LCD monitor.

You would also test all the available connections on the monitor. Don't limit yourself to only using the VGA connection. If the monitor has a DVI or an HDMI connection, test them as well.

Remove the bezel around any menu buttons, and remove the plastic button covers themselves. Make sure that none of the buttons are being pressed in by the bezel or the casing... as well as make sure none of the buttons are broken on the printed circuit board they are connected to.

Use different cables. After you have tested all the ports, get different cables and test them again. Test the cables on other monitors to make sure they work properly.

Also, as pointed out, if you find out that there is something being displayed, but just that there is no light to illuminate it, it would either be the CCFL illuminating the screen that isn't working (low chance), or it would be the inverter that supplies the high voltage necessary to kick-start the CCFL (high chance). Inverters are almost cheap enough to purchase on the off chance that swapping it out will cause a bulb to light again.

After that... you would check any cabling behind the LCD panel itself... but unless the unit was dropped, it's not likely the internal cabling would be bad. So, after this, you really start needing a multi-meter to check things.

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Thank you for the reply, it's much appreciated! Ill definitely try all of this. –  Phxvyper Jul 25 '13 at 1:40

Usually, the backlights on those burn out quicker than most other components. If it's not the backlight, you might as well toss it unless you're good with soldering (electrolytic capacitors on the power supply are usually the next in line to break). To check if it's the backlight, get a really strong light and turn on the monitor. If the backlight is malfunctioning, you should be able to see faint outlines of the monitors OSD (On-Screen Display). If that's the case, order backlights for that monitor type and switch them out. If you don't see anything then it's something else and, as I mentioned before, it would be more cost-effective to get another one.

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What you describe as a problem with the backlight would more than likely be a problem with the inverter that is providing power to the backlight. The CCFL bulb in an LCD panel is far less likely to fail, when compared to the inverter. If the inverter fails, the bulb doesn't light. Inverters cost $5-$30 US. –  Bon Gart Jul 25 '13 at 0:02
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I've gotten a monitor with broken capasitors working by replacing them, though if you do, replacing every single through hole electrolytic capasitor is a good idea - failures seem to cascade as caps are replaced. I'd note for ~30 dollars, you can probably get a replacement driver and inverter, which might be a good option here. –  Journeyman Geek Jul 25 '13 at 0:46

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