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I have an Onda v116w dual OS tablet. Last week I accidently deleted a Windows boot manager file while trying to reset the boot order. Ever since I’ve been struggling with my UEFI settings to convince the system to boot a Windows USB or repair disk via either of my two USB ports.

A few days ago, whilst exhausted and desperate, I reset some USB settings. I believe what I did was tell UEFI to treat my ports as 2.0 rather than 3.0. Ever since I have no access to BIOS.

Previously I could mash multiple keys on a standard USB keyboard during the Windows boot manager failure screen and it would take me to BIOS settings. The USB’s seem to still be sending power to external devices. An external DVD drive will light up and spin, and a USB mouse’s laser will light up when plugged in. I just cant seem to use the keyboard. It’s lights, like the num lock, caps lock etc… will not light up. It seems it’s not being powered at all.

Aside from any advice or brain storms which would be very welcome, my primary question is this; I have since ordered a new Onda v116w that will arrive hopefully late this week. Is there someway that I might flash the new drive and overwrite the bricked one? Do you think I can even gain access to the drive to overwrite it? If so, how might I do it?

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In my very limited experience ( I paid 135 for a 919 9.7" from dealsmachine) you can get the boot at least and probaly the BIOS setup as well.

Patience leaving it on the charger and then pressing power and volume up at once.

Sometimes the BIOS setup required a keyboard and mouse. I think the Windows button is required to enter setup upon boot...

You will find it recoverable I am getting ready to try windows 7 I think the windows 10 included constantly freezes. Drivers have always taken me weeks to install when getting a system installed also I hope the timings are adjustable they seem really off. CPU-z usually freezes up and I wonder if there are SPDs which is typical when Timings are all messed up.

Of course I could be off at first I thought mine had burned out and it still does display the "total freeze-up" that originally ONLY meant overheating, so I assume overheating is a problem. Or perhaps misadjusting maybe it was at "125" and the Chinese thought that was "C" not F.

Why it can't beep really quick before sending the CPU "Halt" NMI is a total mystery - assuming my assumings are all pretty close.

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