Hot answers tagged case
No, hard drives are in sealed enclosures and these images are marketing shots to give you an idea of the engineering inside.
Yes, it should be safe. Just be sure to put your motherboard on something not conductive, like cardboard box, and it should not touch anything that conducts electricity, including your main computer case. I did this few times. If you stop by in almost any computer shop, technicians do this sort of thing routinely.
Comparing the TigerDirect page for a Seagate ST2000DM001 to the Amazon page for the ST2000DM001, we see that the TigerDirect page includes a few more pictures for that exact model number. One of the pictures shows the drive with the case on. This suggests that the other 3 stores you checked just decided, for whatever reason, not to show the product as ...
@Paul is absolutely correct. Hard drives need to be enclosed (I'd say sealed, except they are not quite sealed - but the tiny area which is not sealed is behind a heavy filter). It makes sense that drives need to be sealed when you realise how they work. The drive head floats very slightly above the platter to read the information. The thing is that that ...
This is not new. Here's an ad for a 10 MB HDD which also most definitely did not ship with open disks. https://plus.google.com/+DeryaUnutmaz/posts/hUWkX1Ukhiy Here's how a 10MB HDD looked like
It's marketing. A hard drive cover is boring; the internals look impressive. This isn't a new concept, for example this Intel processor doesn't actually have a semi-translucent heat spreader:
Motherboards follow standard specifications. These specifications include many different metrics and details, such as motherboard dimensions, features, etc. Modern computer chassis (cases) are ATX standard. Most of the cases you will be looking at are ATX. However there are options around this. ATX motherboards will always fit into ATX cases. microATX ...
Yes, you can power on the motherboard outside of its case. Just keep some precautions, like laying a piece of cardboard underneath the board, and you're good to go. Also, human body contains static charge, so ground the static by touching a grounded appliance or wiring a ground circuit. Static charge in the human body might damage sensitive electronic ...
37 degrees should not be a problem at all. Naturally, hard drives differ in their specs, some can run hotter than the others. You should check the published specifications of the drives that you have. For example, WD Caviar Black 1TB operational temperature is -0° C to 60° C. Of course, you would not want your drive to run 60°, as it might reduce its life ...
I personally used canned air (aka difluroethane). Just make sure you don't let the blades of the fan spin while you are spraying the canned air as it may damage something.
For display purposes only. The read-write heads move across the disk, flying on a thin film of air about 3-7 millionths of an inch thick. Finger prints and the finest dust will bridge this, causing a head crash. A human hair is a mountain in size in comparison at about 0.5-6 thousandths of an inch Most drives available have a sealed container with a ...
Most of the smell will be in the PSU, cleaning the case will help, but you should replace the PSU, no good way to clean the inside of a PSU of cigarette residue. Example of a heavy computer and cigarette user.
The really important aspect of cooling is good airflow. Most cases have a front-to-back airflow: air goes in at the front and out at the back. Reasons for this direction include the location of the power supply unit at the back (a major heat generator, so its air must be evacuated directly) and the preference not to blow hot air towards the user of the ...
Air Freshener sounds like a good idea, least on the short run. Taking apart your computer as far as possible, dismantling all the plastic trim off the case, and wiping down everything non electronic with a solution of vinegar might help - metafilter seems to suggest being in the same vicinity as a bowl of vinegar may help too. The same thread also seems ...
Mechanical hard drives will always come in sealed metal enclosures. The only exception I know to the "solid metal enclosure" rule, was the Western Digital Raptor X, a hi-performance 150Gb 10k RMP HDD: it was sealed with a transparent plexiglas enclosure, so you could effectively see the spinning disks and the moving head. You can find more image about ...
There are usually special trays on which you can screw an SSD and then screw the whole tray into a 3.5" slot. Also common is the approach that the tray can fit either a 2.5" SSD or a 3.5" HDD. So no special precautions have to be taken. These should come with your case. This part from the specs hints at the fact, that the trays come with the case and are ...
Not the answer you're going to like: Most computer cases are built to both maximize airflow and direct the heat transfer away from the intakes. Pulling cool air in from the front and side then blowing hot air out the back has been fairly standard for decades. The problem with pulling cool air and blowing out hot air from the same side (the front) is that it ...
USB3 requires new connectors, with more connections in them. These are backwards compatible, Therefore a USB1/USB2 device will plug into a USB3 host, but this means that unless your case has the new connectors, you can't in a USB3 device. You could still use these connectors for USB1/USB2 devices, or use USB3 devices in a USB1/2 compatibility mode.
I would just buy a 2.5" drive and use a mounting kit: Now that they all use the same SATA ports, you just use the same standard connectors as any other hard drive.
The point is to remove heat from the case so: heat rises, so fans at the top of the case blow the hot air out and fans at the bottom blow cold air in. fans near hot components (CPU, Power supply, high end graphic cards) blow air out because you want to remove the hot air - not spread it around. you have to have good airflow where hot air is continually ...
This is a rather interesting article on the subject. It was our assumption that the tests with ALL the fans in operation would produce the best results but it didn’t. Time to idle represents how effectively the configuration removes heat from the PC case. The shorter the time the better. CPU peak and idle as well as System peak and idle are easy to ...
Have a look at the retr0bright page. “The problem was finally cracked in late July 2008 with a mixture of hydrogen peroxide, a small amount of an “Oxy” laundry booster as a catalyst and a UV lamp; we believed that this could do the job in hours instead of days. " Forum support thread on AmiBay. After and before:
I once worked on a computer network in a trucking dispatch center. Every piece of equipment I opened up had a layer of brown tar on it. It's sticky and attracts dust which liberally coats everything. Changing out network cards was difficult as the cards had actually been glued into the slots with the mixture of tar and dirt that had accumulated. The first ...
The other answers you got are correct: it's definitely doable and something that is done all the time by professional/power/enthusiast users for all sorts of purposes. What I would like to add is that, if you search online, you'll see that a lot of people will turn the motherboard ON using a screwdriver: they simply close the circuit between the 2 power ...
They are pretty much standardized and are just little pins that stick up in a certain configuration: These pins look like this:
Here's a nifty little tool that allows to you "blow air" (similar to canned air) but through use of manual labor. Unlimited source of air, and gets you a little bit of exercise as well ;)
Dude, just flip the fans around in the case.
What you want to do is move air through the PC. You want the case to be a bit like a wind tunnel. The best tactic is to have one intake and one outtake. For low noise I recommend a slow moving 12cm fan at each point. Since warm air rises it's also best if your outtake is somewhere high and your intake somewhere low. I happen to have an inexpensive (50 euro) ...
The middle spot depends on your case and components. Different case designs need different levels of airflow to cool the same components. Hotter components (faster processors, more disks etc) need more airflow than cooler components (eg laptop processors and SSDs). Significantly, the nominal dB and airflow ratings of fans often have little relation to how ...
Fortunately IBM/Lenovo is really good at writing hardware manuals. http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site.wss/MIGR-70068.html This one is no exception. Have fun taking it apart.
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