New answers tagged cooling
It sounds like your CPU heatsink / block is not properly attached or you are not using enough thermal paste. Does RealTemp report LOG in the Thermal Status area? That means your CPU has logged at least one thermal throttling episode. If it shows HOT, that means thermal throttling is fully engaged. How much thermal paste did you use and how did you apply ...
Negative pressure: In comparisons the negative pressure is more effective, it just gets dirty easier. Thats nothing a little canned Air can't fix a few times a year though. Benefits For Negative: Good cooling performance for performance-oriented situations Amplification of natural convection Linear and direct air flow Compatible with all ...
I'd suggest: Positive pressure inside the case is good to discourage ingress of particles. Turbulence is good to increase heat transfer. Baffles, or any other obstacles, are likely to be bad by reducing efficiency (hence increasing power requirement, noise and heat load).
It should be okay to clean all of your computer with isopropyl alchohol. The alchohol vaporises at room temperature, so just make sure it is completely dry before connecting the power again. I'd be carefull which paper towels you use, as some paper towels tend to leave behind small traces of paper. I usually use a cotton but when cleaning my computers.
There is a lot of good info in this post and these links. I've done the positive air pressure system with the outs of case filters and a lot of trial and error with the help of temp monitoring. My case had many vents which I duct taped to get pressured system and air moving up (heat rises) from all sides except for the PSU and the 2 GPUs that have their own ...
buy a big case with lots of fan space, i tryed turning differant fans around 180 and found improvement. Got a coolmaster case with 3 140's and a 120 pushing in. Cpu is got 140 x 280 radiator with 2 120's going out of top . I rarely see temps over 45 C and the thing has 2 video cards, two hard drives, 16 gigs ram and 1000 watt power supply. It runs cooler ...
A possible problem is neither of the three. Usually, GPU (as well as CPU) is connected to the heatpipe through a thermoconducting block (copper or aluminum, sometimes a weird blue thermal rubber), with a tiny quantity of thermal grease to fill in microscopic cavities which could lower conductivity. Too much grease, or too little, can easily reduce thermal ...
First I'd actually open the computer and inspect the inside. Check to make sure there are no obvious flaws. If there are none I would check to make sure that something in the background isn't eating resources. My next question would be are you sure it's 100C. 100F seems more realistic considering I can boil water on your laptop if this is the case. Now you ...
You need to clean the dust accumulated on the laptop fan(internal). Open up the back of your laptop. Remove the fan(mostly found on the corners), and open internal parts of the fan if you can. You'll find a lot of dust in there. Blow it with a dryer, or use cotton+alcohol. you'll have to clean the air vents in the side of the laptop(looks like grid, its a ...
The entire laptop i guess ? since it is 6 years. but anyway, the fan did slow down over time. the graphite electrode got erodes and became dust which is stuck inside the motor, which affect the overall cooling. So that should be your best bet.
all the software uses statistics about heat from the RPM info" Hard disk drives spin at a constant rate (usually 5400 RPM, 7200 RPM, 10000 RPM, or 15000 RPM). So the statistics on RPM info will probably be of little value for determining temperature.
No, the temperature monitor is embedded into the HDD. It's a more recent addition and you will only see it with some of the newer SCSI disks. Anything older than a few years won't have the sensors. It's actually a part of the S.M.A.R.T. suite that reports around 30 attributes. (http://www.hdsentinel.com/smart/index.php) The software just pulls it from the ...
The hard drive has a temperature sensor (or multiple temperature sensors - they might be used for internal control, self-test etc...) inside, and this data is passed through SMART (in fact, this is a standardized SMART parameter).
You want the speed on your processor to stay up. instead of a feature where the cpu is slowed down to cool it. You may find some results in control panel..power options..high performance..change plan settings..changed advanced power settings..processor power management make sure it's minimum-100% plugged in. active cooling. maximum 100%. You may be on ...
Option 1: 1. Control Panel 2. Power Options 3. Change Plan Settings 4. Change settings that are currently unavailable 5. Processor Power Managerment 6. System Cooling Policy 7. "Passive" change to "Active" Option 2: 1. Goto BIOS 2. Disable anything call "CoolnQuiet" or similar. 3. Look for anything say "Keep FAN power ON".
This looks promising for what you're trying to do: http://www.almico.com/sfdownload.php
As always, all the posts blame the cleanliness of your fans, etc. The problem is not with your laptop. I experienced the same problems running Windows all day long, and not so much as a degree in rise of temperature-run Fedora or any other Linux flavor and your laptop overheats instantly and shuts down. I ended up trying and staying with Linux Mint, using ...
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