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1

To put this in perspective, the vast majority of computers and electronics use an inexpensive surge suppressor or nothing at all, and are never damaged for the lifetime of the device. Nonetheless, I'll go over the common types: Power Tap: These provide no protection at all; they simply provide additional outlets. The back or bottom label will identify ...


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You say this: I’ve poked around enough to know that basically there’s two logical parts to these things, the controller hardware and then the actual storage itself. Is it possible to separate the storage and connect it to another controller or some other type of hardware that can read it? In general, all external drives are basically internal ...


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I've read the report mentioned above and check operating temp ranges for samsung, WD, and hitachi hard drives. Based on research I have concluded that drives operating in the 30 degrees to 45 degrees offer the least likely hood of failure; A S.M.A.R.T. high temperature of up to 55 degrees is not a cause for any concern; and that Peek temperatures over 60 ...


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Floppy disks and modern flash memory are two totally different things. A USB flash drive has a flash controller chip with complex logic to handle things like wear leveling and error correction. The underlying complexity is hidden from the computer so it only sees logical blocks and not physical ones. Accessing a floppy disk on old systems was much more low ...


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Have you tried disabling the "Hybrid Shutdown" feature as described in this article? http://www.askvg.com/fix-windows-8-restart-and-shutdown-problems-by-disabling-hybrid-shutdown-feature/ I'm having the exact same symptoms myself, and I tried the fix noted in the article and it seems to have helped. However, it's only been a few hours so I'm not confident ...


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Hard disk malfunction is very difficult to pinpoint. There are a number of possibilities as to what the actual fault is, but common causes for the "click of death" - as your video demonstrates - include: Controller board failure - the PCB on the outside of the hard disk (attached to the disk) contains chips and firmware that provide the instructions to ...


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Since my fist ssd (intel I have los t 0 GB from any ssd ever owned (that intel, evo 840 120GB, 2x evo 840 250G and 1x evo 500G), same goes for other flash media like usb keys, sd cards, memory in phones. During the same time 5 HDD died and took the data with them. An old WD 80GB SATA, an old Maxtor 320GB IDE and 3 less then a year old WD 1TB green SATA ...


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If you haven't had any spikes in power, you're not over clocking and your computer is relatively dust free and operating under a reasonable temperature then there seems to be two possible causes. You hit the jackpot and got multiple sticks of bad ram in successive purchases. These defects don't always appear immediately and can manifest over time. A slot ...


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You mentioned hooking it up via USB so I'm assuming this is an external drive. When this happens it usually means that whatever piece is between the SATA drive and usb output is faulty. The good news is if you can see the correct partition table briefly then there's a good chance your data is in tact and the MBR is fine as well. The best thing to do ...


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In addition to re-seating the main components, if the computer was on at the time of the impact, a chkdsk of all connected hard drives wouldn't be a bad idea. Bad-Pool can also indicate driver instabilities of some components, and it wouldn't hurt to also check for updated drivers for all of the main components such as: video card, nic/wifi, and other ...


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It may be worth pulling the system apart and re-seating every component. My computer recently refused to boot after a knock to the top of the case, and everything felt solidly connected to me. After unplugging every component and plugging it all back in again, magically it worked. In your case, since the problem is intermittent, you're unlikely to be able ...


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From the comments the problem has been identified as the external graphics adapter has failed. Removing the graphics card and using the onboard graphics should confirm this as the system should boot and operate normally.


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Try upgrading your BIOS to the latest revision offered by your motherboard manufacturer. It may just be a matter of your current BIOS revision not knowing how to handle the timing and/or voltages when all the slots are populated.



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