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63

This is the standard "saran-wrap-in-place-of-condom" question. While some toothpastes may provide the correct type of thermal conductivity, "toothpaste" is too big a category to answer the question accurately. Worse, unless you want to make it a fun science project, nobody is going to be testing different types of toothpastes for thermal conductivity. That ...


34

I suspect its unlikely, though it depends on what you mean by colour. There are three fundamental modes of heat transfer for any material, and only one of them is directly affected by colour. Heat is transferred from the heat source to the heat sink, and from the heat sink to the air by conduction. Most heatsinks are made of copper (heavy, and relatively ...


22

This Wikipedia article has some information/discussion about that. I only repeat some links below. For the complete discussion you can look at the article. Heat Sink Color From http://www.radianheatsinks.com/support/faqs.html How does the color of a heat sink impact its thermal performance? In natural convection a black or dark colored heatsink ...


19

That would be a thermal pad, they are placed there to allow heat to travel more easily out of whatever chip it was placed against. Probably should add that they are also used when a perfect seal isn't possible, I.E. A space more then 1mm between chip/processor and cooling system. So if doesn't look like it was compressed much, may want to replace it with ...


17

The bit of the CPU in contact with the cooler is just a heat spreader. As long as the heat-sink draws sufficient heat away from the spreader, it should be fine. Just watch temps. As you can see, the actual processor is quite small compared to the CPU package.


16

It should be, given that in the same amount of time, it could've been attached to a CPU and has to enure that as well. If you don't trust it, just scrape it off and apply fresh coolingpaste (which is different than those strips. The paste can actually dry out. Journeyman Geek points out that if its slightly hard it should be ok, if it crumbles like dried ...


14

Use rubbing alchohol. It cuts the grease and dries quickly/safely for electronics. The preferred way to remove typical silicone oil-based thermal grease from a component or heat sink is by using isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). If none is available, pure acetone is also a valid method of removal. From Wikipedia Also the suggestion to use ...


14

The thermal paste is there to provide good heat conductivity between the CPU and the heatsink. If you separate the two, it is best for you to reapply some thermal paste (VERY thin layer) in order to maintain good thermal contact between the two. I usually prefer to clean both the heat sink and the CPU with a q-tip and some alcohol before reapplying thermal ...


13

The heat radiates from the surface of a heat sink, so the greater the surface area, the better the heatsink. Roughly speaking, if you cut a load of slots in your big block of aluminium, you could end up with, say, 5 times the surface area, and the heatsink can then get rid of 5 times the heat. Have a read of the Wikipedia article - the big block is, in ...


11

Can you? Yes Should you? Probably not. Do you really want to risk it? A tube of thermal paste costs 15$ at a computer repair shop and is good for several applications.


11

Those are known as Thermally-Conductive Pads, and are used as the equivalent of thermal paste. They're usually made from wax or silicone, and become very soft and pliable when heated up. They're not as good as thermal paste, but they are less messy and much easier to deal with, so this makes them a good choice when heat transfer efficiency doesn't have to ...


7

While I can't find an authoritative reference (ie. from manufacturers), there is a definitive "yes" around the internet. There are many posts on many forums confirming that 1156/1155/1150 are compatible. Examples at: overclock.net, Tom's Hardware, guru3d. What I noticed myself when Haswell first came out: existing coolers (such as the Noctua NH-D14, as an ...


7

A Heat "Sink" as its commonly, but perhaps incorrectly called, has two jobs: evacuate heat directly from the CPU die as quickly as possibly to allow evacuated heat to dissapate without reintroducing the heat into the system you are attempting to cool. This second part is why I don't like the term "sink". it implies that you can keep pouring heat "down ...


7

I have always scraped it off with a credit card, then used alcohol applied with paper towels and a q-tip to clean the residue. Wikipedia has more detail though: Computer processor heatsinks utilize a variety of designs to promote better thermal transfer between components. Some thermal greases have a durability up to at least 8 years. Flat and smooth ...


7

Fins give you more surface area for cooling, a large block has less surface area and would still have a hotter center than something that can get air right to the center of "the block".


7

If this is a new paste you just put, you only want it to be a uniform thin layer on top of the CPU or the heatsink (don't put it on both surfaces), so you don't need to scrape it all off completely. I usually use an old credit card as a spatula to spread the thermal paste thinly and evenly. You can use a similar soft plastic tool (you don't want to damage ...


6

You might see a slight decrease in temperature as your paste sets in, but it isn't going to be anything drastic... a degree or two at most. Remember, the only reason we use thermal paste is because the two surfaces we are mating are not perfectly flat. Thermal paste fills in the microscopic pits on the surface of the processor and the heatsink effectively ...


6

You need to be careful you don't over-tighten the screws, that could lead to a cracked heat sink or even CPU. If the heat sink has come/been taken off your safest approach is to carefully clean the old paste off both parts an apply fresh. It can't be stressed enough that there needs to be good thermal conductivity between the CPU and the heatsink as ...


6

It might be better than nothing, but unless toothpaste has unsuspected thermal conductivity, I'd say it's a bad idea. You also have to consider what the ingredients of the toothpaste might do in contact with your CPU. I suspect it would be pretty conductive in an electrical sense. You don't want electrical conductivity. Better get some real thermal paste. ...


6

I remember hearing about this at Dan's Data a while back, and he went back and forth with Arctic Silver's Nevin on the issue. I think the basic idea was that toothpaste will dry up faster than true thermal paste, perhaps leaving you a lot worse off than if there was nothing at all. So, if you like removing your heatsink as much as I do, then no, it's not ...


6

LGA115x heatsinks are compatible. From source 3: Noctua's info sheet for their new NH-D15S cooler, stating it's compatible with LGA 1151 (Skylake), and the installation manual, which shows using the same design of rigid, nonadjustable backplate with fixed posts as for the current 1150/5/6, with no special instructions for 1151, so the mobo holes and ...


6

I used to have a cooler in that line with that same contact surface and it worked fine. Some additional tips: The part of the CPU you see is the heat spreader. The actual chip is usually a good deal smaller. Obviously contact with the entire spreader is ideal, but a sufficiently good cooler (which the Arctic Freezers usually are) can work with less. A good ...


6

The copper square is the heat sink base. The copper tube is a heat pipe. The black metal sheets are fins. The whole thing, including the fan, is the heat sink.


6

You need to turn them in the direction of the arrow (ant-clockwise), then pull up on them. It's a bit hard to see in the underside picture if it's currently locked in or not. If you still can't get them to come out try pinching the underside of the pins with some pliers while pulling them out.


5

That is to say, if the heatsink is short, will the processor's heat be lower compared to that of the tall one? Actually it's the other way round. What affects the cooling is the overall surface, the material of the cooler and the airflow around it. Thus said, a bigger cooler is better, at least to some extent. As long as it is not just a solid block, ...


5

Applying thermal paste is not that hard, there are different application methods depending on if the CPU has a heatspreader built on it or if the core is exposed. If the core is exposed I suggest using this guide from Arctic Silver: http://www.arcticsilver.com/pdf/appmeth/int/ss/intel_app_method_surface_spread_v1.1.pdf If the core has a heatspreader on it: ...


4

As you have narrowed the problem down to overheating on the CPU, most likely the fan/heatsink became damaged during your move. Devices with moving parts such as the hard drive and fans are most vulnerable to vibrations and problems that can happen when moving - I have seen it happen loads of times to the hard drive and it is rare to get damage to the fan ...


4

First, if you want to save a few bucks, depending on your current heatsink/fan design (some are combined and not seperated easily), you might be able to just replace the fan. You said it was dying, and I assume you meant the fan on the heatsink is dying. Got any pictures of information about your current setup? Without actualy recommending an exact heatsink ...


4

First for the 200 hours statement: It depends on type of thermal paste. There are pastes like Arctic Silver which need time to settle and there are thermal pastes like generic silicon based or Arctic Cooling MX-3 which do not need to settle. Next point is about the way paste settles. It's not just the time itself that's needed. Volume of thermal paste ...



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