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I have two Ethernet ports wired together (A -> B). I used a cable tester to check whether they have been wired correctly, and I have the following findings:

  • Transmitter is on A, only flashes 4, 5. Receiver is on B, only flashes 5, 4.
  • Transmitter is on B, only flashes 5, 4. Receiver is on A, only flashes 4, 5.
  • On a separate Ethernet patch cable, the transmitter and receiver flash 1-8 in order. So I can rule out them being faulty.
  • The above results are from this tester I purchased. When I use another, cheaper tester, no numbers light up at all (the cheaper receiver lights up all numbers on a working Ethernet patch cable).

A: enter image description here

B: enter image description here

They both look wired correctly to me, using the B configuration. Both have blue on 4 and blue-white on 5.

Would I need to re-do the wiring here? What signal does 4 and 5 carry?

I’m really confused because the other wires around the house connect correctly, and all look similarly wired.

Any advice is much appreciated.

Background

I have 16 Ethernet ports around the house wired down to a patch panel by the router, connected to a switch. Four of these ports do not connect (ABCD). I have found that two of them connect to each other (A <-> B), and the other two to each other (C <-> D). So the electrician mis-wired them many years ago.

I tested this by using a wire continuity tester, plugging one end into one port (A). And then using the beeping end on B, and it would beep.

I would like to wire A <-> B correctly, as I can pass Ethernet to A, which would let me connect via B.

There are 16 Ethernet cables wired into the patch panel. But if four are wired to each other, I have no idea where 4 of these 16 patch panel cables go to. That’s for another weekend!

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  • These should be re-punched. When you do it make sure there is still twist in each pair as close as possible to the insert. 5e allows up to an inch of untwisted conductors to termination. Mar 17, 2021 at 21:19

1 Answer 1

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There are two possibilities, depending. You might even have the AB pair going with one, and the CD pair with the other.

This is where you really need that beeper detector I told you about ("wire tone generator", will set you back around USD 25 on Amazon). Because you need to track where the cables are running in the walls.

X and Y are connected through a wall box, router extra wire goes there

This is the most likely option, because otherwise the electrician would have noticed the extra cables and connectors, or cables missing connectors. I mean, you have two cable ends at the router (2), so other two ends somewhere (and that's four), plus one cable starting from X and ending in Y, and that's six. But to connect X and Y to the router you should only have had two starts at the router, one end at X and one at Y, four in all.

What I think probably happened is that the cable runs were too long to pull the wire through, so the electrician prepared an intermediate stop point, and instead of doing two pulls (you have a wall box and inside there is an uninterrupted cable entering from one end, exiting the other), he did it in two legs (same wall box, a cable enters one end, another exits the other, and there's a connector in the middle).

He did this for two rooms, and when he had to splice the cables, he spliced them the other way round. There is a wall box somewhere with the splicing connectors swapped. Just swap them back, and Bob's your uncle.

Here, the two rooms on the upper left should have been cabled from the wall box at the bottom left, but the cables got swapped in the box.

crossed room wiring

X and Y are connected through a straight single run, router extra wire runs to wherever else

This is bad. In theory there might not even be a wall channel from X or Y to the router room. In which case your only resort is probably WiFi or a "Homeplug" adapter (Ethernet over power cables).

Otherwise, you'll have to pull the cables all the way out of the walls, and use a fiberglass wire-router to pull new cables the correct way (or maybe you can recycle the old cables if the lengths allow it).

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Many years ago, I had a technician upgrade all the phone sockets in the whole house, and he forgot to drive a wall channel to the outside. When the phone company guys came round with their coil of cable, they were quite baffled. I had room-to-room voice capabilities, but no POTS (had to drill a - cough - not quite legal or up to specs hole through the external wall in order for the phone line to enter. That, or wait three months for a new appointment - phone companies in my country are not famous for their promptness of service).

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  • Thank you so very much for your detailed explanation and diagram. It helps a lot - as I understand now, there could be a box somewhere between the router and ports A and B, which should connect the router to these ports. Instead, it has been miswired as shown in your diagram. I have a couple of questions - (1) you say ‘the cable runs were too long to pull the wire through’ - I don’t understand how a cable can be too long? Wouldn’t it be too short in this instance, as it cannot reach the rooms so it needs this box?
    – WunDaii
    Mar 17, 2021 at 22:31
  • (2) I purchased this tester after my previous Q, it appears to have the beeper detector. So I should connect the two ends to the blue wires and track where the cables run to find the box. (3) Why did only 4/5 show up, and in the wrong order? Is that just the wire gone bad, or is it a special case for having this box?
    – WunDaii
    Mar 17, 2021 at 22:31
  • The cable meets resistance when it is pulled through a corrugated tube in the wall, especially if there are many bends. So, usually it is pulled out mid-way, and pulled again to make a second leg. Then, my fiberglass probe is 20 m long, so I could not pull a cable longer than 19.8 m in one "leg". Of course, another possible cause is the technician only had two shorter sections of cable. But that is not too likely, cable is usually sold in 50 or 100 m coils. (2) yes. (3) beats me 😁... MAYBE the cable is bad. I do not know, sorry.
    – LSerni
    Mar 17, 2021 at 22:52
  • Great, thank you. I will try the beeper in the morning, but I did try test your theory by using the cable tester in the patch panel by the router. Going by your theory, the cables going from the patch panel go to this box, but then come back to the patch panel (the blue line under ‘Wrong’ in your diagram). So I used a cable tester and tried every combination of the patch panel sockets that are connected to unknown ends, and none lit up. Can I assume this means the cables from the patch panel do not loop to each other?
    – WunDaii
    Mar 18, 2021 at 1:14
  • Another weird anecdote, when I connect my cable tester transmitter to one of the unknown patch panel ports, lights 2 and 8 flash when the transmitter is not even connected to anything. What a mess! 😐
    – WunDaii
    Mar 18, 2021 at 1:17

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