I already have the new microswitches (left and right mousebutton). Seems like the original ones are for 10 Million clicks, my new ones are for 20 M - OMRON D2FC-F-7N(20M). That's just for whoever searches this in the future.

So the mouse is open - you can find an how-to on ifixit!

I took off all screws on the boards. The upper board that has the microswitches on it seems to be still connected with the lower board via the 14 soldering joints in #3 in this picture:

enter image description here

This is how it looks from underneath:

enter image description here

So I'm asking myself.. Do I just have to pull a bit harder? Or do I have to unsolder the 14 points?



Okay I got it! The mouse is working just fine.

The 14 points on #3 are "Rectangular Connectors/Headers/Pins".

I had to unsolder them one by one. After that I was able to lift the board.

Here is how it looks like underneath the first board: enter image description here

After that you just have to unsolder the three points from the microswitch you want to change. Put it back together and you're good.


There is no need to disassemble it quite that much, or actually even to replace the switch. What happens is that inside the switch is a piece of metal that acts like a spring and it loses it's tension after a while causing the dreaded unintended doubleclicks. You can just open the switch, take out the metal spring, firm it back up by bending or straightening as appropriate depending on the action of your particular switch and put it back together.

I've done this a few times now, and it always lasts at LEAST a year before the bad behaviour returns. Probably more but I haven't really kept track.

Now, if only the back button was as easily fixed... haven't found out how to do that yet =/

  • Can you be a little more specific with your detail, consider adding some reference and proof supporting what you state, and confirming this answer is not already answered in one of the existing answers on the post if applicable? – IT Thug Ninja Sep 8 '17 at 18:40

This is what I did to mine:

I figured i would make it so I wouldn't have put in much work to replace the switches in the future. I cut all the pins and then just soldered wires to connect them again. Thomas you're wrong, I did that once. it lasted maybe 6 months longer. the issue is you're touching the metal which then causes it to corrode. the only way to really fix this is to replace the actual switch. I have fixed my mouse 3 times... once by doing exactly what you said, once replacing it with a switch that was fixed by doing what you said, and once by replacing it with an actual new switch. Guess which one lasted longer?

  • What is the photo supposed to be showing us? – Scott Nov 21 '18 at 7:45
  • @Scott - Compare pbanj's photo to the other photos provided by ezkay. Pbanj removed those metal pins and replaced them with flexible wires so that if he has to separate the two circuit boards in future, all he has to do is remove the 4 screws and move the upper board to one side. – XJDHDR Aug 15 '20 at 10:06

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